Sometimes it only takes a few layers of electrical tape to provide enough protection from the elements.

I've had the above configuration going through several rain filled days with no problems.

I've refined the pivot point for the rotisserie motor deer deterrent chain with some common tie wraps.

It's a cleaner looking solution that is also very cheap and should hold up to even the worst weather conditions.

The new rotisserie motor deer deterrents are holding up well under several nights of sub-freezing conditions.

What we consider cold around here lately would be in the 10 degrees farenheit and above category.

I would be willing to send a free T-shirt to anyone out there who is running a do it yourself rotisserie motor deer deterrent in a place like North Dakota where the temperatures really, really get cold. Just report back to us with a few pictures and a brief description so the rest of us can determine if these motors can handle such a frigid winter. The fresh broccoli alone is worth the trouble of putting one of these simple devices together.

One discovery I've made recently on the rotisserie motor deer deterrent is that 14 gauge galvinized wire is too thin of a material to suspend the clanger from. It's not stiff enough to resist medium to high winds, which can shift things in such a way that you experience deer deterrent entanglement.

This happend in the past, and each time I was able to catch it to prevent motor burn out but this most recent event occurred while we were on vacation.

The lesson learned is to use 12 gauge wire or thicker when suspending the clanging material for the rotisserie motor deer deterrent.

I decided to upgrade the rotisserie motor deer deterrent support arm because buying a set of hex keys just for the 5/16th size wrench was going to get out of hand since I planned on building at least 4 deterrents.

The above support arm is cut from a longer, threaded piece that can be found at most hardware stores for about 3 dollars. I was able to make 4 arms with a bit left over.

I used a small table vise to hold one end firmly while I slowly bent it to the shape you see in the picture. You'll need a hack saw or equivilant to cut each piece to the size you want and make sure to do the bending first.

Grinding off just a bit where the piece matches up with the motor holder will help you be able to force the two together. You might want to add some super glue or epoxy if the connection is even a little bit loose. I left the orignial hex key in place on the prototype unit, but didn't use adhesive for any of the other 3 units.